A Hedonist in the Cellar, Great Read

A Hedonist in the Cellar Adventures in Wine

Jay McInerney

Borzoi Books Alfred Knopf

New York 2006 243 p.

A few months ago I read somewhere that while recipe books and books about food abound, books about wine are scarce. Whoever said that also said that good wine books are a rare species. It is sad to agree but I have to. It is obvious that a lot of people know a lot about wine and that among that lot a few are terrifyingly knowledgeable of the subject. However, very few are both versed in the affairs of wine and are -at the same time- good, strong writers. To our fortune, Ian McInerney is one of them and his “A Hedonist in the Cellar” is a delight to read.

Like those who are really good at what they do, McInerney renounces to all bragging rights. He doesn’t have that annoyingly pretentious “I-know-it-all” tone that many who think themselves wine connoisseurs do. His style is light and deep flavored,  like a Pinot Noir. His understanding of wine is concentrated and dark, like an Amarone. Or perhaps a Sagrantino, an obscure wine on which he illustrates us well with his vivid account “The Mysterius Beauty of Sagrantino di Montefalco.”

McInerney’s narrative is fun and interesting and he has had the wisdom to write short pieces for each subject, coming up with titles that make one feel like jumping into the reading. Enmeshed in the narrative, cultural and historical references add a layer of erudition, showing a writer who has read deep and wide. McInerney also has a knack for capturing people’s looks and personalities and his descriptions make the characters he meets come alive from the paper. After reading this book, you will not think of wine personalities the way you did before. Michel Chapoutier, for instance, one of the most successful winemakers from the Rhone, shows his intense humour, borderline with crassness but stopping shy of it. “The brain is a pleasure killer” he says, in the introduction. Later he is quoted saying “drinking filtered wine is like having sex with a condom” and then “you don’t need to be a gynecologist to have sex, in reference to the widely spread, obsessive need to “analyze” wine and find all kinds of aromas and flavors in it, instead of just enjoying it fully.

Like in Mr. Chapoutier’s case, McInerney brings out the quirky side of wine makers, negociants, writers and critics, a side often not even imagined. And he does it with freshness and humor. There is little room for hard black & white criticism in McInerney’s writing, something that should be essential in any good writer, especially when the subject at hand is wine.

The book starts with “Foreplay”, a metaphor for the fact that one starts a party drinking whites. A collection of eight pieces that take us from the slopes of tiny Condrieu (McInerney’s confessed favorite white) to the intricacies of German enological hieroglyphics, read labels. This first set, dedicated to whites, is like that kind of wine, bright and fresh. It sheds light on some wines that should deserve more attention: white Bordeaux, Soave, Tocai Friulano.

The second set “All Wine Wishes It Could Be Red” is loaded with knowledge and entertainment. I enjoyed “The Roasted Slope of the Rhone” (where he renders a colorful depiction of Marcel Guigal) and “An Extreme, Emotional Wine: Amarone” particularly. His articles in this section cover the world of wine at large: Malbec, Chilean reds, Cahors and the Cult Cabs of Santa Barbara, among others.

It would be tempting to go into the details of each selection but that would be rather time consuming and really, the scope and depth of each short piece is of such richness that it is better to let the reader jump from characters like Rioja’s eccentric Remírez de Ganuza to Jacques Lardiere (“The Mad Scientist of Jadot”) and the likes of Jancis Robinson, among others. His “How to Impress your Sommelier” selection is delightfully insightful, providing an insider’s look at Rioja, Austrian Riesling and Sagrantino di Montefalco.

For a seafood lover like myself, I loved the “Fish Stories from Le Bernardin” as well as the “Provencal Pink” article. These two and others are part of chapter six, “Matches Made in Heaven”. “Bin Ends”, the title for chapter eight, brings the uber interesting “Strictly Kosher” (it made me smile quite often too) and his “Baby Jesus in Velvet Pants” touched a personal note, as I spent a good hour chatting with Burgundy’s own Luc Bouchard from Bouchard Pere et Fils at a downtown Vancouver restaurant last November.

The last chapter, “Bubbles and Spirits” is equally rich and inspiring, somehow transferring to the reading the joyful mood that one gets after one or two sips of sparkling wine. The pieces on Armagnac, Champagne, Chartreuse and Absinthe (“The Wild Green Fairy”) set the tone for his epilogue (“What I Drank on my Forty-Eighth Birthday”), a candid account which made me a bit jealous. Who, after all, gets to write a letter to Jancis Robinson telling her about one’s birthday knowing that she will read it? And who gets to open a Magnum of 1990 Dom Perignon for the occasion? Not to mention the 99 Zind-Humbrecht Clos Hauserer Riesling or the Martinelli Jackass Hill ’96 monster Zinfandel. These closing lines  reminded me that I should start planning my own 48th with the best wines I can get my hands on. One can only dream…

From the physical point of view, this book also scores high. The cover is definitely low key but deeply wine themed (although I would’ve done without the unnecessary Robert Parker’s three-line comment on the front). Good choice of color scheme here (so many people seem to be color blind these days). The table of contents, to the point and simple. I loved the choice of paper both in appearance and texture. Nice at touch: strong yet somehow sophisticated. Or at least the kind you’d expect when the subject at hand  is wine. Lovely font too and quite smart to have a note about it on the last page. The bibliography list –on the previous page- also comes handy.

There aren’t very many things lacking in this read. One of them is an index. The information packed here is dense and loaded with names of appellations, winemakers and the like. It surely would help to have an index when using this book for reference, as I am sure many will do. Summing up, I can see McInerney’s “Hedonist” becoming a classic. Good for him. Highly recommended and now I am to return this copy to the Burnaby Public Library (beautiful building with a view to the North Vancouver’s mountains) and buy my own.

Arroz con Mariscos: The Easy Alternative to Paella

I had the fortune to eat my first real Paella in the place where it was born: Valencia, on Spain’s Mediterranean coast. As a first timer, I was intrigued and also a bit weary. You never know if you are going to like a new food, especially, when everyone who told you about it seems to love it. I had had spurious versions in Vancouver’s Hispanic restaurants and I couldn’t say I was too impressed. My hosts were a nice young couple who had visited me in Vancouver years before. They fell in love with our city (how could they not?) and were more than eager to show me their town and its best expressions. I am not the kind of person who can hide his dislike of a dish or wine. So, I was a bit worried I might pull a face when tasting the Paella Valenciana they were so excited to share with me.

Before going on with the story, let’s say that Valencia claims to be the cradle of Paella. That is, the Paella Marinera (marine) that we all know. Rice, saffron, red pepper, mussels, prawns, chicken, chorizo. However, the original Paella, also originated in Valencia but further inland, is made with rabbit, chicken and rosemary as opposed to saffron. The young Spanish couple had made this for me during their visit in Vancouver and I enjoyed it thoroughly.  In the years to come I tried making Paella Marinera several times. Anyone who has attempted this knows how heartbreaking is to find, after spending good money on seafood and a lot of work and time, that the result is not what one expected. Most stoves do not have the right burner size to heat the paella pot homogeneously. Electric elements don’t respond quickly to temperature changes. It is easy to end up with overcooked rice, lumped in one sticky mass. Or even worse, to have uncooked rice on your plate. Because of that I turned to a Peruvian favorite, Arroz con Mariscos (rice and seafood) that is easier to make and is a tasty substitute to Paella.

THE RECIPE

Start by thawing a bag of seafood mix. Rinse thoroughly with cold tap water. For this amount (approx. 1 lb) chop a medium size onion and a shallot. Sautee in olive oil over medium heat until tender. Add a sprinkle or two of chili flakes and a spoonful of Spanish paprika. Stir well and add the seafood mix. Chop a Roma tomato and add to mix. Pour 1/3 cup of dry white wine, ¼ cup green peas and a bay leaf. Cook in low for 7-10 min. or until seafood is tender. You will know it  is ready because it turns opaque. Remove bay leaf. Meanwhile, cook 2 cups of rice (I normally use rice cooker for convenience). Follow regular water to rice proportions. You can substitute water for fish, chicken or vegetable stock. When rice is almost ready, incorporate to cooked seafood mix and stir. Incorporate 8-12 prawn tails, shell on.  Add half a red bell pepper cut in fine strips on top, cover and simmer for another 5 minutes. Serve hot, sprinkle with chopped fresh parsley and drops of lemon. This dish is truly enjoyed when paired with a refreshing white wine. Albarino comes to mind, but Fiano, Orvieto or a lean Chardonnay will do well.

Grilled Squid for Christmas

Not very traditional, I know, but long ago I renounced eating turkey out of ethical and health considerations. Plus, grilled squid tastes a lot better than the bird. The slippery creatures live free in the oceans and with increasing water temperatures, there is a cephalopod bonanza all over the world. In fact, in some areas, like off the coast of California, the large Humboldt squid are becoming a problem due to their abundance. In today’s vulnerable seas, the squid fisheries is one of the sustainable ones.

The recipe offered here  is a mix of what I tasted in Piran, a lovely town on the Adriatic shores of Slovenia and my father’s own, which he borrowed -and bettered- from Japanese immigrants in the Peruvian port of El Callao.  The original Mediterranean and Adriatic recipe includes garlic, lemon and parsley. The soy sauce and ginger additions are definitely Asian. This  is a very simple and simply delicious meal.

Grab a 2 pound pack of frozen squid tubes and tentacles, thaw, wash with fresh water, rinse and pat dry. Marinate in a bowl with crushed garlic (2 cloves), chili flakes (to taste), chopped fresh ginger (a thimble full), white wine (I used half a cup of inexpensive Australian Chardonnay) and a few dashes of soy sauce. For this latter ingredient, I used the light version. Marinate in fridge for 6 hours.

Heat a cast iron skillet and brush it with cooking oil Iif you have a bbq all the better). Take the squid marinade, pat dry on a t-towel and grill on cast iron skillet over high heat. Don’t overcrowd the skillet; you should have about half of the surface covered with tubes and tentacles. You will need a couple of minutes until brown. Set aside in warm oven and continue until all squid is grilled.

Serve immediately on warm platter. Pour plenty of your favorite olive oil (when I say plenty I mean swimming in oil) and squirt a lemon on the dish. Sprinkle with a handful of finely chopped parsley and eat with Portuguese buns or Parisian Baguette.

Wine choices: Albarino from Northern Spain, Burgans is a good option. Raimat Chardonnay Albarino would also accompany this plate with elan. Chablis and Falanghina would also enhance this dish.

Merry Christmas to all!

Say Oc to Languedoc

Languedoc Wine Conference Dinner November 23rd, 2009, C Restaurant Vancouver

Decidedly French and charmingly candid, Regional Representative Christine Molines (that would be, Christine Windmills) can be very passionate when the subject is the wines of Languedoc. Last month, at a wonderfully well put together tasting at C Restaurant on False Creek, she walked a delighted audience through the regions of the Southern France wine powerhouse (it has more vineyard area than Australia) and through a flight of eight products that did not disappoint.

The first thing that comes to mind when one thinks Languedoc is “Where the hell is that? What wines are made there?” The appellation does not have the resonance and prestige of Bordeaux, Burgundy, not even of the lesser known Loire or Alsace. Let’s start with the name. Languedoc -originally Langue d’Oc- translates as ‘language of Oc,’ this latter word meaning “yes”. The region stretches like an arc hugging the Mediterranean from the Pyrenees near the border with Spain, to the city of Nimes in the Gard, the latter an appellation that officially corresponds to the wine departements of the Southern Rhone. The Languedoc wine country is analogous to California because of its vast vineyard acreage, its sun baked hills and maritime influence. That is where the similarities stop.

Unlike its American cousin, the Languedoc’s landscape is dotted with castles, cathedrals and rocky outcrops on which the ruins of palaces and temples speak of a rich past, a hinge of cultures that from the time of the Greeks have recognized it as premier wine country. The appellation is fragmented in a number of sub-appellations, of which Coteaux du Languedoc, Corbieres and Minervois are the best known.  Still reds are the bulk of the production but Lunel and Frontignan’s dessert wines (Vin Doux Naturels) as well as exciting sparkling wines from Limoux are part of the region’s vinous arsenal.

The predominant black grapes are Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Carignan and Cinsault. Often maligned and misunderstood, the last two can produce beautiful wines when grown to produce small crops on marginal, sloped, schist-predominant soils. In some areas, namely Cabardes and Malepere, Atlantic varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot can be found blended with the Mediterranean ones. Piquepoul, Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Bourboulenc predominate in white blends, which tend to be robust and aromatic. Delicious, floral, appley sparkling wines are made with those grapes and also with Mauzac, a variety rarely found outside the region.

With over a dozen sub-appellations and areas undergoing classification, diversity in the taste and character of the wines is to be expected. However, the terroir exercises its influence throughout the region, principally through the aromas of la garrigue. This is a quintessential Languedoc landscape, defined by scrubland perfumed by strong ocean, mineral and herbal scents. Lavender, thyme, rosemary, Aleppo pine and others mingle with the soils and the salty marine breeze, propping up the grapes’ aromas and flavors. This bouquet of wild vegetation and minerals is the olfactory hallmark of the appellation’s wines. In a subsequent post I will review the wines tasted at that memorable show (special thanks to Mireille Sauve of The Wine Umbrella who helped organize the event).

However, I feel I also owe a note to the region as a tourist destination. Enchanting cities, like Montpellier and fairy-tale like rural landscapes, as in Gassac, make this region a must see for the wine traveler. If the beauty, history and wine were not enough, there is the delicious food. Cassoulet, choucroute, bouillabaisse, goat cheese, the list goes on. Today’s Languedoc is a marriage between the land and the Mediterranean, enjoying a cultural tradition to which all, Greek and Phoenician, Roman and Visigoth, Arab and Franc have contributed and shaped. Say Oc to the wines of Languedoc.

“Argentina will be the new Australia”

Opinion article published by Argentinean wine site Area del Vino

The author of the note is Peruvian and is a wine consultant working in the retail sector in British Columbia. This gives us a glimpse of the Canadian plaza and predicts a bright future for Argentine wines.

A FEW WEEKS AGO, an importing agent told me ”Argentina will be the new Australia”, while at Argentina’s Everything Wine section, the largest wine  store in Vancouver . His statement left me wondering if his prediction was feasible. I also raised other questions as to what actions are needed to obtain an Argentine wine market share similar to that of Australia, with its Shiraz and Chardonnays have captured nine percent of the domestic market and the first imported wines in British Columbia .

Australia, innovative and aggressive

By the early nineties, Vancouver liquor stores displaying a few products from Australia, led by its signature wine, the Shiraz. Today, a decade and a half later find Australian wines is nothing but the rule when you visit a liquor store, the chain is state or private LDB.

The image of Australia as a nation quality winery was established largely through an aggressive international marketing. The workhorse of the industry is the southern line of wines Yellowtail budget. The use of Australian wildlife on the labels, which exhibit strong colors, some traditional wines, to promote its Shiraz and Chardonnay, strong market stalled. Not only Yellowtail Shiraz varietal has positioned itself as strongly in the minds of consumers, but opened the door for a real invasion of varietal wines and Australian cuts. Australia is now owner of budget wine segment in BC. To compete in that market, Argentine wines will be promoted as quality and distinctive alternatives.

Positioning signature varietal

Argentina’s industry requires a marketing effort for the consumer’s mind in BC, Malbec is synonymous with Argentine wine. Australia and Chile have aggressive and savvy industries, so no doubt will develop their own Malbec (Malbec Montes and offers to 15.99), by challenging that space to Argentina. The industry must take a “preemptive strike” and print the concept Argentina-Malbec in the psyche of the consumer rather than Australia or Chile Malbecs place their own market.

Image Positioning

Argentine wines are another important aspect that Market. The packaging of wine has reached a high level in Argentina, to the point that many products are beautiful as objects. Similarly, label design highlights the sophisticated taste of the culture of Argentina. Maintaining that aesthetic quality is essential for the positioning of Argentine wine, and providing psychological elements associated with elegance, sophistication, in addition to the actual quality of the broth. Similarly, the image of Argentine wine should be hung from the strong imprint of Argentina as a country brand, with distinctive and unique icons, like Maradona, Evita, the Tango and Patagonia.

Continuous quality improvement

Despite the global recession, experts agree that wine consumption will not suffer a serious setback. It is considered rather than the consumer will choose wines better value for money or to consume wine at home rather than in a restaurant. Argentine wines under $ 20 must maintain a high quality to fight in this highly competitive space.

Niche Markets

The industry must identify niche markets can be satisfied. An important niche in wine is organic or eco-friendly “. Argentina must use concepts like “natural purity” of the Andes as the centerpiece of that effort. Regions like Patagonia are already positioned as exotic lands, ecologically pristine. Sell organic wines with geographical delineations as this can help to capture large segments of that niche.

Premium wines

Argentina’s industry must not neglect the niche of premium wines (High End Wines). The Canadian market grew by 10% in value and 6% in volume during 2005 to 6.6 billion CND. In contrast to other international markets, this growth was largely driven by high-end wines.

The Asian Factor

Almost half of British Columbia’s population is of Asian origin. Chinese restaurants, Japanese, Indian, Vietnamese and Thais are at each corner and are favorites of Asian and non-Asian population. The Argentine wine should be promoted according to weddings, not only with roasts and steaks, but with Asian and fusion food.

Communications

BC’s consumer is very curious and seeking information. Besides coverage, Argentina’s industry should provide fresh information through websites. These should be available in English. Pages as the Wines of Argentina are important and efforts should be the rule rather than the exception.

Beyond advertising

It is a fact that media coverage has much more credibility than the most expensive advertising campaign. It is important to create events and news of interest to newspapers and magazines in BC. The tasting events are particularly effective because media people are invited to produce articles for local newspapers, emphasizing not only the quality of the wines but also providing information regarding the country of production and supply, thus reinforcing the positioning Argentina – Malbec wine.

Will the next Argentina Australia in British Columbia? Much of that destiny can be realized if the industry takes the lead.

To read original (in Spanish) go to:

http://www.areadelvino.com/articulo.php?num=18030

IVSA November 9: Part II

Well, obviously I am not very gifted as a weather forecaster. Through my window the sky over Vancouver shines, the fuzzy sunlight bouncing off the first snows covering the North Shore mountains. Only two days ago I talked about sombre days but hey, weather is a lot more intricate than describing wine (not that I am much better at that either). The chill of the morning makes me long for warmth, and I find that in my memories of substantial, nourishing reds (unlike other foods, wine nourishes the soul as well) tasted just four or five days ago.

Enough of meteorology and al grano, like we say in Spanish: Let’s get to the point. Bacchus Group had one of the nicest surprises of the night, a Greek wine, that is. I held the glass of 2007 Boutari ODE (23.99) with –excuse me- reasonable scepticism. Little I knew I would be so fond of this 50/50 blend of Agiorgitiko and Cabernet Sauvignon, varieties charmingly described on the winery’s website as karismatikos, ‘charismatic’. Juicy and mildly addictive, this wine may change your stereotypes about fermented grape juice made in the country that gave birth to democracy, philosophy and spanakopita. Next to the ODE, the 2006 Chateau de la Gardine stood out with its odd shaped bottle and old fashioned label. This Chateauneuf-du-Pape “Cuvee Tradition” delivers all the aroma, fruit and tannin one may expect from the appellation, plus a sense of seriously taken winemaking. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Muscardin, this broth offers consistent quality at an affordable price (49.99).

Portugal is a wine country that is still new and unknown to most, including this humble scribe, yours truly. The Seacove Group showcased the Crasto 2007 Tinto from Douro (the Duero River, as it is known in Spain) and the Quinta do Crasto 2007 Old Vines Reserva. Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Tinta Barroca, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional make these two outstanding wines. The former has garnered accolades for its blackberryish nose and lively, easygoing body and at 19.99 is a steal. The latter has a nose that is slightly floral and rotund in its finality. Opulent and satisfying, ripe fruit enmeshed with tones of wood and mineral. The 42.99 price tag is well deserved.

Also from Seacove Group but hailing from Languedoc, the Domaine de l’Auster 2008 Faugeres (18.99) excites with a sweet nose reminiscent of confited fruit and its medium, rustic yet velvety body. Braised meats (or replace with forest/porcini mushrooms) will enhance this tasty red broth.

Replacing Natino Bellantoni at the Enoteca Bacco booth, Cicco poured the Primitivo Punta Aquila 2006. This wine by Tenute Rubino is fresh, soft, fruity and approachable. Bursting with fruit and spice on the nose, the berry/spice flavors are supported by playful acidity and sweet tannins. Lovely at 23.95 but the real star at this booth was the Castel del Monte Vigna Pedale 2005 – Torrevento. This is a 100% Nero di Troia.  Fragrant nose, explosive palate with vibrant fruit, mouth puckering tannins  and a long, exuberant finish. Decant a good hour or two; stay away if you are tannin shy. Otherwise you will love this offering from Puglia. 27.95.

This neverending saga has one more installment. Hasta la vista.

Ivan

 

IVSA November 9: The Reds. Part I

Ok, let’s face it: A shiny morning doesn’t mean that our beautiful Vancouver fall is holding on. Mostly days are turning gray, cold and miserable. And it is for that reason that while I decipher my wine notes from the last IVSA, a pot of Osso Bucco -Peruvian version- is simmering on the stove, flooding my kitchen with aromas of beef ribs, porcini mushroom and melting celery. While I seep and write I keep an eye on it, you know, cooking is a serious matter for a wineaddicto like me.

The wine I have in mind for this Peruvian stew  (Estofado) is the Poggio al Lupo IGT Toscana, brought to Vancouver by Liquid Art Fine Wines. This fine, big wine is made by Tenuta Sette Ponti, the very creators of proved success stories, like the delicious Crognolo. The Poggio al Lupo is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Alicante and a dash of Petit Verdot. The latter two are responsible for the deep coloring of this remarkable Tuscan broth and for its reverberate-on-the-palate tannic charge too. Piquant fruit on the nose, aggressive almost to a fault –but stopping just shy of- and with black fruit and herbal flavors that have a hint of bitterness, in the right sense. This makes for a challenging drink and for a great companion to a dish like the one I have on the slow cooker or for Osso Bucco, game or mature cheeses. In the vicinity of 70 dollars, this is a wine to look for. 91 points Wine Spectator 2007, 2008.

Wine Rhapsody treats British Columbians with the Chateau La Moutete, a red blend from Provence. The Rouge Vielles Vignes 2005 is a typical southern blend of Carignan, Grenache Syrah and Mourvedre. Medium bodied and straightforward in its simplicity, it will accompany duck or red meats with alacrity at c. 30 dollars. More impressive, albeit a lot pricier (7o dollars), the Marchesi di Barolo Cannubi 2001 is a big wine from Piedmont. A floral whiff precedes a full, dry, serious body that delivers all the textural –tannic- load of the properly vinified Nebbiolo grape. Braised meats like beef, lamb or game should allow the full appreciation of this biggie.

Stepping down a bit from the previous big Italian, I tasted the Sgubin Schioppettino, courtesy of Burrows, Luongo & Associates. This a red that deserves a lot more of the Vancouverite wine lover’s attention. The varietal is another incarnation of the better known Refosk grape, a local specialty which is adored in Northern Italy and Slovenia (where it is called Teran) but apparently nowhere else. Simple, rustic and tannic, it does have its charm, and having the chance of choosing a wine to have with roasted boar (ok, yes, it was road kill) I would go for this inexpensive food friendly red. 20-23 dollars. Burrows & Luongo also brings Australian wines. They showcased their Serafino line from McLaren Vale. At 26 dollars and 14.5% alcohol, both the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Shiraz represent good value. I enjoyed the Cab Sauv particularly, with its well integrated oak, juicy fruit and fine tannins.

Natalia Samborski from Select Wines walked me through some of their products. The 2008 Little Yering Pinot Noir comes to mind as excellent value. At 14.99 this Pinot from Yarra had a decent level of structure and a solid, savoury finish. The Villa Saletta 2005 Chiave (key) was the surprise novelty at this table and kept us chatting about it for a while. A blend of Cabernet, Sangiovese and Caladoc, this 16 dollar wine is light, simple and carries ticklish tannins, making the perfect complement to lighter fare. The 2004 Faustino V Rioja doesn’t need introductions and once again, impressed with its burly, intoxicating nose and stewed fruit loaded body. One of the best Riojas to be found at this price. My visit to this booth ended with the Trivento Golden Reserve Malbec 2006. Delivering the typical Mendoza’s Malbec style, this concentrated broth will be serious competition to the likes of Pascual Toso Reserva.

I will continue with the rest of the reds in my next post.

Salud!

IVSA November 9. The Whites.

The last IVSA New Products Salon of the year was fun, crowded and full of new, tasty wines. The usual suspects were around and for the first time in a while I got to see the Wine Diva, Daenna Van Mulligen, tasting some sparkling wines of the Vino Allegro portfolio. For Daenna traveling has been intense recently and between flying, events and writing for her website, there is little time for anything else. As usual she was fun, friendly and looking spectacular. Oh, well, let’s not get carried away and onto the wines I tasted. I tried to taste more reds this time, as the three hours that these events last seem to shrink into some sort of time warp  and you never get to taste all the wines you planned.  I will cover the whites first, then bubbles and reds.

First I visited the Stewart Wine & Spirits booth, where I kicked off the night with the Bollini 2008 Pinot Grigio Trentino DOC. No surprises here, as the product is well established in the BC market. Fresh fruit and refreshing acidity held up by a slightly creamy texture. Always nice to find a Pinot Grigio which is not just another one. Under 20 dollars, this wine is an excellent pick any time. I followed with a Sauvignon Blanc by Bastianich, the “B” 2008. Compact and snappy, this would be a good alternative to Kiwi Sauv Blanc, especially on these cool days when the grassy character is not as attractive, and a more savory, almondy , less acidic wine seems to fit better the weather and gris November mood. This different Sauv Blanc will set you back 19.99. Give it a try. 

I have been waiting for a while to taste the Cuvee Claude Seigneuret Vielles Vignes Macon Bussieres AC 2007 by Domaine de la Saraziniere (what a mouthful of a name here) and I was not disappointed. Electric minerality upholds the….. (illegible!) fruit, better described as a touch of lemon juice squeezed through a filter of flint. Nice acidity and can see why this is a Liquid Art staff favorite. Now is one of mine too at 28.99 per bottle.

Wine Rhapsody brought a small yet tasty set of wines to the show. From the beautiful Loire, two Chenin Blanc offerings proved to be great wines for the season. The Chateau de Varennes Savennieres 2005 renders a textbook tasting of the appellation, with plenty of character, honeyfloralspicyacidity (did you get that? Im playing Faulkner here) at 30.00 dollars.  Also from the Loire and also Chenin Blanc but this time noblerotted, the Chateau Belle-Rive Quarts de Chaume 2003 is as beautiful as the sound of its name. This is all about texture texture and more texture against which fruit flavors, not-cloying sweetness and sober acidity plus a touch of minerality move in a seamless dance. 70.oo dollars for a 750 ml bottle is not bad at all, considering other similar products in the market. I wish I had had some blue cheese to go with. Hmm.

 

Among the most delicious whites of the evening was the Marina Cvetic 2007 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. Represented by Burrows, Luongo & Associates, this high alcohol (14.5%) white surely stands up to its 62.99 dollar price tag. Audacious in its aroma spectrum and bodacious in mouth, this wine is round, intense and satisfying. For those lovers of good west coast halibut baked with herbs and rich sauces, this is the bottle to pick. Having been in the halibut fishing industry for several years, I guarantee it. Your money back? Go see the agents! ; ) 

Wine Quest never fails to surprise and this time they did it again with a delicious Ribolla from Colli Orientali del Friuli. This 2007 Gialla by Poggiobello salutes with a heap of wet hay, melon and pomme aromas followed by a medium bodied, crisp, clean-finish sip. 25.99. Also at this table, the unoaked 2007 IGT Prato Grande Chardonnay by De Angelis was fresh, flinty and fersistant. I meant persistant but got caught with the flow of f’s. Go figure. Figure it out. Ok, enouf –enough- of that. 18.52 for this interesting wine from Marche.

 

Legacy Brand Management treated me to their 2003 Eikendal Stellenbosch Reserve Chardonnay. I have been curious about the new South African Chardonnays that (like the Ataraxia) seem to be harvesting awards left, right and center. This one had a remarkably skillful use of oak giving structure to rich lemony flavors that persisted in the finish. Truly delicious at 30.99 almost ten dollars below the aforementioned Ataraxia Chardonnay.

 

The only Muscadet Sevre et Maine of the night I tasted was brought by La Boutique du Vin. The Chant de la Mer indeed carried some marine reminiscence in its briney nutty leesy minerality. I thought of oysters and kisses. Oh, well, maybe shouldn’t go there, but they go together don’t they. 18.99 makes perfect for a nice seafood dinner for two any evening.

 

Lanigan & Edwards Wine Merchants import the wonderful 2006 Estate Chardonnay by Trefethen, the house that produces famed Cabernet Sauvignon. A mouth coating, unambiguously Californian Chardonnay, at 34.99 this creamy white puts La Crema in the back seat. Chard lovers pay attention.

 

That’s all folks.

Ciao for now.

Ivan

November 9: IVSA New Products Salon Today!

Well, the IVSA show is starting in…. one hour and five minutes. Lots of new sparkling wines for the coming season will be available for tasting, as well as still red & white and spiritis. I will be hunting for heavy whites and cold weather reds. See you there

Four Seasons Hotel (corner opposite the Vancouver Art Gallery, north east direction). New Products from over 60 agents. Setup at 12:30, Guests from 2PM – 5PM. No Minors.

Aglianico: Volcano in a Bottle

For the average wine consumer, Italy, with its twenty wine regions and scores of commercially grown grapes –most little known and with hard to remember names- can be plain down befuddling. Even for those who have tasted Chianti, Valpolicella or Sangiovese, these are seldom first picks when they go wine shopping. Like in every other sphere of thought and culture, wine is full of stereotypes and myths, and –unfortunately- Italian wine is plagued with them. “They are too acidic”, say some. “I can’t stand the strong tannins”, complain others. “Only good with food”, is what most say.

The reality is that, even myself, used to be in one of the groups above, or in all of them. It takes tasting more than a few Italian wines to realize that the myths above are not only false; they come from perceptions born out of tasting one or two wines from one or two regions only. Many people never go beyond Chianti and Valpolicella, usually low quality versions served as house wines in restaurants. More adventurous consumers go for ITP blends. These, the Indicazione Geografica Tipica wines, are made from international varieties (Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah) sometimes blended with Italian ones, and can be just delicious, full bodied, powerful wines on their own right.

ITP wines have gained international recognition, but the heart of Italian wines resides in the indigenous varieties. Most of the well-known ones are grown in the north: Nebbiolo, found in Barolo and Barbaresco. Chianti’s Sangiovese or Valpolicella’s Corvina. But there is one variety that stands tall in the south: Aglianico. “The Nebbiolo of the south” as they call it, is like the true Nebbiolo, a grape that yields wines that can be big, sometimes massive.

The variety was taken to Southern Italy by the Greeks, although DNA analysis shows that its lineage cannot be traced to anything that is cultivated today in Greece. The name is believed to be a distortion of the word “Ellenico”, Italian word for Greek. Most Aglianico is cultivated in Basilicata (the region between the tip and heel of the Italian boot) and in Campania (the front side of the boot’s ankle). Some vineyards can be found in Molise and Puglia and, to a lesser extent, in Australia and California. In Basilicata the grape enjoys DOC (Denominazione d’Origine Controlatta) status, with the most prestigious wines coming from the volcanic soils around Mount Vulture. In Campania the grape has its own DOCG (Denominazione d’Origine Controlatta e Garantitta) based on the Taurasi appellation.

In the vineyard, Aglianico prefers volcanic soils, as mentioned above, and seems to benefit from relatively high altitude (400-500m). The dark skinned berries ripen incredibly late, a fact that has limited the quality of wines made from early harvesting. Aglianico wines, when well made, can deliver a powerful sensorial experience that rivals or bests that of most other big reds. An intense nose of tectonic force is a hallmark of good Aglianico. Chocolate, plum and spice are common. In the palate the combination of these flavours with the indomitable character of its tannins makes a lasting impression. Due to its high acidity and “ferocious tannins” (as described by Jancis Robinson) , Aglianico wines benefit from cellaring and will make the absolutely perfect match for grilled meats, roasted lamb and game.