South World Wine Society Event

Event cancelled

Wines of Argentina WofA

Like in the past years, Argentina‘s wines will be the darling of the media in the coming month and a half, as the south american wine power shares the stage with New Zealand for the annual Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival. Because of that I will start covering some ground here and for the days to come, with wine reviews and notes on Argentina’s wine culture, regions, grapes, personalities and other etceteras. 

Let’s begin with a flashback, the Wines of Argentina –WofA- show of last September, held at the Sutton Place Hotel in downtown Vancouver. Pablo Cuneo, winemaker for Ruca Malen, introduced nine wines representing the wide diversity of Argentinian terroirs as well as grape varieties. Among other interesting things he mentioned was that Argentina’s wine exports amount to only 2% of the global market. This was surprising to me and I’m sure, to many others. Before Mr. Cuneo’s presentation, I thought Argentina’s market share to be a lot bigger than that. But then, you need to understand that Argentina only became a global wine exporting power in the nineties.

In terms of surface cultivated, Malbec takes 50%, followed by Bonarda, in the mid 20’s and Syrah with about 13%. Of these, Bonarda may be the least familiar to Vancouver wine enthusiasts. Traditionally this grape was used exclusively for blending. There is a reason for this, as the variety is very vigorous, so much that some call it -jokingly- a weed. By saying this, they mean that grape production can be huge if the growth is left unchecked. As we all know, too many grapes per vine and the quality of your wine goes down the sink. However, some winemakers have placed their hopes on this variety, restricting berry production and launching some interesting varietal bottlings to the market. A few of these have reached Vancouver, but we will visit them some other time.

Syrah is another grape that not everyone will associate to Che Guevara’s motherland; such is the strong positioning of the Argentina-Malbec tandem in the mind of the global consumer. However, some good Syrah varietals are made there, with my favorite ones coming from the San Juan region. And we should not forget about Cabernet Sauvignon. Argentina, with a long ripening season virtually free of rainfall, has great potential for the king of black grapes, and some good examples have already reached the shelves of the Liquor Distribution Brand and private wine stores. 

In looking back, it would have been nice to have a Pinot Noir from Patagonia or a sparkling wine in the flight. I am sure there will plenty of those in the upcoming Playhouse International Wine Festival. Let’s now go to the nine wines tasted. 

Lurton Gran Lurton Corte Friulano 2008

Corte is Spanish wine jargon for blend. This is a Tocai Friulano, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Torrontés blend from the Uco Valley, near Mendoza. My notes mention floral citric quince*, good acidity, slightly bitter background, creamy texture and lingering finish. In spite of said bitterness or price ($27.99) I gave it a B and a ☺, which means I quite enjoyed it. 

Etchart Ayres de Cafayate Torrontes 2008

Cafayate is arguably the region that has the potential for the best Torrontés, although personally, the best varietal I have tasted is Andeluna‘s from Mendoza. The Etchart version has a pronounced, terpenic nose (chemical term for “floral.” Now go impress your friends). Sweet aromas, a bit rustic, grapey flavors, persistent finish, 15.99 Cdn.  

Las Moras Gran Shiraz 3 Valleys 2005

I discussed Las Moras winery in a previous posting and this one was a head turner during the show. I had to turn my head because the WofA staff forgot to fill my glass and not wanting to disturb Mr. Cuneo’s talk , I gave a convincing look to a staffer who promptly poured some for me. Sometimes I can look very menacing, you know. I found floral (lavender), dark fruit, coffee, rock, sweet tannin, integrated alcohol in a medium-bodied wine that warms up the mouth uniformly, very pleasant all in all. Syrah feels at home in San Juan and I am convinced this will be more evident in the future as more varietals are imported. $24.99. 

Norton Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

In my vinous ignorance I said once that Argentina was in debt for not producing good Cabernet Sauvignon. Time and time again I have been reminded of  my insolence, tasting very interesting vatietals, particularly from the Mendoza area. This Bodega Norton rendition showed a mellow nose with spice, very subtle green note in the biggish body, red fruit and sweet tannin and a long, warm finish with pepper spice. Good at 17.99. 

Andeluna Grand Reserve Cabernet Franc 2005

This is probably the weakest –or the only weak- link in the long chain of excellent wines by this award winning winery. And I am not saying it is not good. Only that at the price (54.99) I’d rather take the brutally good Limited Reserve Malbec 2004** or the elegant Bordeaux style Pasionado blend. This Cabernet Franc showed subdued red fruit, pepper leaft and tannins a bit angular, although the effect of these on the mouth was rather pleasant. Good, like I say, but not at that price.

Ruca Malen Kinien Malbec 2007

Another Malbec from the Uco Valley, which is a cool area within the Mendoza wine district. The nose was closed but the palate was smooth, sweet tannins with solid fruit and firm but gentle grip. The finish was long and soft, like the whispers of a slow stream. I quite liked this one. $34.99. 

Montes Kaiken Ultra Malbec 2007

Aurelio Montes is a bit of a wine King Midas. Every wine he touches, no matter the grape, seems to turn to gold. He is also a bit of a wine Marco Polo, not hesitating much before setting up wineries far from his native Chile, in places like Napa or as in this case, Luján, in Mendoza. The Kaiken Ultra is the bigger brother of the Kaiken Malbec Vancouver wine lovers know so well. The 10 extra dollars are fully justified. Dark purple with floral and plum, sweet scents. Montes’ hallmark smoothness in mouth is present, with pronounced dark fruit and lingering, spicy finish.  Rock solid at $28.99.

Trapiche Malbec Single Vineyard Federico Villafañe 2006

Sweet, gentle  fruit aromas. A jammy, soft, sweet-tannin full bodied palate make this one into one crowd pleaser Malbec. It was the show’s favorite, although myself would hesitate to fork out the 80 dollars required to taste this beauty. 

Flichman Paisaje de Tupungato 2006

This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Merlot and Malbec woos the nose with ripe fruit followed by even riper fruit, smooth, sweet tannin body. The alcohol is very well integrated, warming up the mouth uniformly for the length of the finish. Lovely at 18.99.

 

*In 15 years in Vancouver I have never seen one quince. Does anybody know what it tastes like? Back in Peru, where it is very common (membrillo, mem-bree-yoe), as kids we loved to hate it. It looks like a small pale yellow-green apple. It has an interesting herbal –quincey– fragrance. On biting is crunchy, grainy, with zingy acidity and slightly sweet; after a few seconds en bouche it turns excruciatingly astringent, but then, you want more.

** The Andeluna Limited Reserve Malbec 2004 is now just over $60.

Saludos

Ivan Alfonso

Note. Photos courtesy of Andeluna Cellars

Argentina’s Las Moras: Great Quality Under 20 Dollars

With the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival looming in the distance, it is time to pay some attention to the land of Che Guevara, Evita and Maradona. That Argentina is producing wines of great value is news to nobody. We all are familiar with all those under 10, 10-15 and under 20 dollars Malbec bottlings that embellish our tables and bring joy to our parties. In this category, there is a winery that really is scoring goal after great tasting goal.

 

I am referring to Finca Las Moras, or “mulberry estate” as it would be in Spanish, which is the language spoken in the southamerican country. I make this point clear because, had you the chance to meet an Argentinian you may think he comes from somewhere in Europe. Argentinians gesture like Italians, have the self confidence of Spaniards and the pomp of Englishmen but they are just Argentinos. Never mind. Us, fellow southamericans love to make fun of them; we call them che’s (like in “Che” Guevara), but we all know well they are true masters at three things:

 

–fútbol, football (soccer, as the unbelievers call it )

–sound and fury

–vino, mucho vino

 

They also have the best meat in the world, but I don’t intend to offend vegetarians, vegans and those practicing abstinence here…

 

Las Moras, unlike most che wineries known here in Vancouver, is not located in sunny, dry, hot, beautiful Mendoza but a little further North, in sunnier, drier, hotter, beautiful San Juan. Soils and climate there suit non-wimpy grapes, as in the case of Syrah. San Juan’s best wines today are produced in the Tulum Valley, which is where Las Moras has its viticultural headquarters. The winery’s vineyards lie at 630 metres above sea level and conditions are such that there is very little -or none- need for the use of pesticides, making the wines virtually organic.

 

In Vancouver you can find some of their varietals and blends. Best marks go to their exquisite Malbec, Tannat, Shiraz, Cabernet/Shiraz and Chardonnay, all priced between 15 an 17 dollars. In the higher price bracket, the Gran Shiraz 3 Valleys is one yummy sip at 25 Cnd. All these products are excellent value and have in common an onslaught of ripe, full-flavoured fruit coming off and out of the glass.

 

The first four products are really worth every penny you pay. Particularly impressive is the Malbec, juicy and plump, hard to beat in this price category. The Tannat, which is a more recent entry in the City of Glass, is surprising in its mouthfilling fruit but particularly in its tannins, abundant but very fine grained, smooth as no French Tannat will be. (Many Madiran Tannats are blended with Merlot to soften the otherwise excruciatingly raspy tannins). The Shiraz is also very competent at the price, mellow and with sweet tannins and the right dose of spice. The Chardonnay, the only white from this house to be found in YVR, is  lovely, balancing good appley acidity with popcorn butter, although those not fond of oak may not enjoy the latter characteristic. I don’t really care for such niceties. I drink wines all across the board; from the anorexically lean to the Boteroesquely curvaceous. As long as they offer quality, I love them. The same approach goes for my mating preferences. This Zen of Drinking requires time, patience, self-discipline and $$$. Reasons for which I am growing older, hermit-like and broke.

 

To finish this entry, all in all, top marks for Las Moras. Even the packaging is attractive, with front and back labels offering good information without offending the eye with bright shiny coloring or cartoon-like illustrations. On the down side, they should seriously give a second thought to their website efforts. Wine geeks and lovers and drinkers look wineries up in the net. Nothing is more aggravating than broken links or pages that appear etternally “under construction”. The currently working website, www.fincalasmoras.co.uk provides very little information on either the winery, the wines or anything. Plus, aesthetically speaking, is a bit tacky. Come on guys, the quality of your wines deserves better. Communications are important too, you know.

 

A note to the importer, Diamond Estates Wines & Spirits. Great job, guys, but when are we getting the Las Moras Late Harvest Viognier here? After the Olympics (not to mention the bill hanging over their heads), Vancouverites only deserve gold. 

 

ps. Apologies for the formatting. Used a new clipboard and showed up in color green and other font. Will try and fix soon.

 

Wow! Time does Fly…2010, Olympics, Writing, White Wine

My dear few -select-  readers, I should say something about my inexcusable absence. Over a month without entering a single line on this blog. I hope those who visited it  found something interesting in older entries. What has kept me away from winecouver? Well, to begin with, as a typical southamerican man, I like to celebrate great occasions and when I celebrate, celebrations last days, or week, as in this case.

As some of you may know, besides being a bit of a wine addict and know a bit about it, and besides my culinary interests and my marine biology background, I am a fiction writer too. It is from this line of action that my celebration was born. Last December I was selected finalist in the Juan Rulfo Radio Francia International literary contest. This is probably the most prestigious prize of its kind (cuentos, short fiction) in the hispanic world.

15 works were chosen from a universe that I can estimate at -easily- one thousand entries. So, I am still trying to digest such honor. And this rewarding experience led me to try -unsuccessfully- to finish a novel in 26 days in order to enter another contest, this time for historical fiction.

The job was definitely too big for me and I decided to give this novel a real chance, so I am not rushing to finish it any more and instead I am starting to plan it so that it will be a good, solid one when it is done. The subject is the Incas, more precisely, the last days of the Incas, after the Spanish invasion of the …what century? 14th? (of course I know this, just adding some spice to this otherwise boresome account).

As for wine, hot weather has come upon us vancouverites well in advance. I keep my kitchen windows wide open at night time sometimes. Crazy. And because of this premature spring, I have been drinking white wine.

Here a few wines that are worth visiting. Some for sheer deliciousness, others for being serious value.

Rudera, Chenin Blanc (I think I had the 2006). Must give a chance to well made Chenin Blanc. Fully flavored and almost resinous, this Rudera was a revelation. Honey and wax and intense malus (the technical name for the apple family) flavors plus an acidity that stays on the palate to a long, satisfying end. $30-36

Other Chenin Blanc to check out, the Cuvee La  Negrette from the Loire Valley ($ 30-35) and for value try the Obikwa. Yes, the humble -often maligned- inexpensive South African brand makes a really good job at 9.99.

Feudo Arancio‘s Grillo is (at $15-18) definitely worth trying for those who love Pinot Grigio but find that the lovey Italian white is still too lean, too acidic, too refreshing for the weather. Try this offering from Sicily. Wine needs to be tuned to its environs, yes? Who would gulp a glass of heavy, dense Shiraz in the middle of a scorching hot day? You get the point.

As for the Vancouver Olympics…. could someone ask the rCmP (or whoever is in charge) to stop running those low flying choppers over Burnaby Heights? My house is very old and every night the poor little structure shakes to its foundations…. sure security matters, but c’mon this is not Bombthehelloutofitstan.

Cheers

Ivan

IVSA November 9: Part II

Well, obviously I am not very gifted as a weather forecaster. Through my window the sky over Vancouver shines, the fuzzy sunlight bouncing off the first snows covering the North Shore mountains. Only two days ago I talked about sombre days but hey, weather is a lot more intricate than describing wine (not that I am much better at that either). The chill of the morning makes me long for warmth, and I find that in my memories of substantial, nourishing reds (unlike other foods, wine nourishes the soul as well) tasted just four or five days ago.

Enough of meteorology and al grano, like we say in Spanish: Let’s get to the point. Bacchus Group had one of the nicest surprises of the night, a Greek wine, that is. I held the glass of 2007 Boutari ODE (23.99) with –excuse me- reasonable scepticism. Little I knew I would be so fond of this 50/50 blend of Agiorgitiko and Cabernet Sauvignon, varieties charmingly described on the winery’s website as karismatikos, ‘charismatic’. Juicy and mildly addictive, this wine may change your stereotypes about fermented grape juice made in the country that gave birth to democracy, philosophy and spanakopita. Next to the ODE, the 2006 Chateau de la Gardine stood out with its odd shaped bottle and old fashioned label. This Chateauneuf-du-Pape “Cuvee Tradition” delivers all the aroma, fruit and tannin one may expect from the appellation, plus a sense of seriously taken winemaking. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Muscardin, this broth offers consistent quality at an affordable price (49.99).

Portugal is a wine country that is still new and unknown to most, including this humble scribe, yours truly. The Seacove Group showcased the Crasto 2007 Tinto from Douro (the Duero River, as it is known in Spain) and the Quinta do Crasto 2007 Old Vines Reserva. Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Tinta Barroca, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional make these two outstanding wines. The former has garnered accolades for its blackberryish nose and lively, easygoing body and at 19.99 is a steal. The latter has a nose that is slightly floral and rotund in its finality. Opulent and satisfying, ripe fruit enmeshed with tones of wood and mineral. The 42.99 price tag is well deserved.

Also from Seacove Group but hailing from Languedoc, the Domaine de l’Auster 2008 Faugeres (18.99) excites with a sweet nose reminiscent of confited fruit and its medium, rustic yet velvety body. Braised meats (or replace with forest/porcini mushrooms) will enhance this tasty red broth.

Replacing Natino Bellantoni at the Enoteca Bacco booth, Cicco poured the Primitivo Punta Aquila 2006. This wine by Tenute Rubino is fresh, soft, fruity and approachable. Bursting with fruit and spice on the nose, the berry/spice flavors are supported by playful acidity and sweet tannins. Lovely at 23.95 but the real star at this booth was the Castel del Monte Vigna Pedale 2005 – Torrevento. This is a 100% Nero di Troia.  Fragrant nose, explosive palate with vibrant fruit, mouth puckering tannins  and a long, exuberant finish. Decant a good hour or two; stay away if you are tannin shy. Otherwise you will love this offering from Puglia. 27.95.

This neverending saga has one more installment. Hasta la vista.

Ivan

 

IVSA November 9. The Whites.

The last IVSA New Products Salon of the year was fun, crowded and full of new, tasty wines. The usual suspects were around and for the first time in a while I got to see the Wine Diva, Daenna Van Mulligen, tasting some sparkling wines of the Vino Allegro portfolio. For Daenna traveling has been intense recently and between flying, events and writing for her website, there is little time for anything else. As usual she was fun, friendly and looking spectacular. Oh, well, let’s not get carried away and onto the wines I tasted. I tried to taste more reds this time, as the three hours that these events last seem to shrink into some sort of time warp  and you never get to taste all the wines you planned.  I will cover the whites first, then bubbles and reds.

First I visited the Stewart Wine & Spirits booth, where I kicked off the night with the Bollini 2008 Pinot Grigio Trentino DOC. No surprises here, as the product is well established in the BC market. Fresh fruit and refreshing acidity held up by a slightly creamy texture. Always nice to find a Pinot Grigio which is not just another one. Under 20 dollars, this wine is an excellent pick any time. I followed with a Sauvignon Blanc by Bastianich, the “B” 2008. Compact and snappy, this would be a good alternative to Kiwi Sauv Blanc, especially on these cool days when the grassy character is not as attractive, and a more savory, almondy , less acidic wine seems to fit better the weather and gris November mood. This different Sauv Blanc will set you back 19.99. Give it a try. 

I have been waiting for a while to taste the Cuvee Claude Seigneuret Vielles Vignes Macon Bussieres AC 2007 by Domaine de la Saraziniere (what a mouthful of a name here) and I was not disappointed. Electric minerality upholds the….. (illegible!) fruit, better described as a touch of lemon juice squeezed through a filter of flint. Nice acidity and can see why this is a Liquid Art staff favorite. Now is one of mine too at 28.99 per bottle.

Wine Rhapsody brought a small yet tasty set of wines to the show. From the beautiful Loire, two Chenin Blanc offerings proved to be great wines for the season. The Chateau de Varennes Savennieres 2005 renders a textbook tasting of the appellation, with plenty of character, honeyfloralspicyacidity (did you get that? Im playing Faulkner here) at 30.00 dollars.  Also from the Loire and also Chenin Blanc but this time noblerotted, the Chateau Belle-Rive Quarts de Chaume 2003 is as beautiful as the sound of its name. This is all about texture texture and more texture against which fruit flavors, not-cloying sweetness and sober acidity plus a touch of minerality move in a seamless dance. 70.oo dollars for a 750 ml bottle is not bad at all, considering other similar products in the market. I wish I had had some blue cheese to go with. Hmm.

 

Among the most delicious whites of the evening was the Marina Cvetic 2007 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. Represented by Burrows, Luongo & Associates, this high alcohol (14.5%) white surely stands up to its 62.99 dollar price tag. Audacious in its aroma spectrum and bodacious in mouth, this wine is round, intense and satisfying. For those lovers of good west coast halibut baked with herbs and rich sauces, this is the bottle to pick. Having been in the halibut fishing industry for several years, I guarantee it. Your money back? Go see the agents! ; ) 

Wine Quest never fails to surprise and this time they did it again with a delicious Ribolla from Colli Orientali del Friuli. This 2007 Gialla by Poggiobello salutes with a heap of wet hay, melon and pomme aromas followed by a medium bodied, crisp, clean-finish sip. 25.99. Also at this table, the unoaked 2007 IGT Prato Grande Chardonnay by De Angelis was fresh, flinty and fersistant. I meant persistant but got caught with the flow of f’s. Go figure. Figure it out. Ok, enouf –enough- of that. 18.52 for this interesting wine from Marche.

 

Legacy Brand Management treated me to their 2003 Eikendal Stellenbosch Reserve Chardonnay. I have been curious about the new South African Chardonnays that (like the Ataraxia) seem to be harvesting awards left, right and center. This one had a remarkably skillful use of oak giving structure to rich lemony flavors that persisted in the finish. Truly delicious at 30.99 almost ten dollars below the aforementioned Ataraxia Chardonnay.

 

The only Muscadet Sevre et Maine of the night I tasted was brought by La Boutique du Vin. The Chant de la Mer indeed carried some marine reminiscence in its briney nutty leesy minerality. I thought of oysters and kisses. Oh, well, maybe shouldn’t go there, but they go together don’t they. 18.99 makes perfect for a nice seafood dinner for two any evening.

 

Lanigan & Edwards Wine Merchants import the wonderful 2006 Estate Chardonnay by Trefethen, the house that produces famed Cabernet Sauvignon. A mouth coating, unambiguously Californian Chardonnay, at 34.99 this creamy white puts La Crema in the back seat. Chard lovers pay attention.

 

That’s all folks.

Ciao for now.

Ivan